Everything but a schnitzel
Places to eat, explore, stay, and enjoy in Berlin.
Holaaa!
I first wanted to say thank you to everyone who has already subscribed to this new site after I shared the news on Instagram. Do I have an official little corner of the Internet now?
I hadn’t been to Berlin since 2020 so when I had the opportunity to fly out for a few days for work, I took the chance to enjoy the city and visit some friends. Is there anything better than Berlin in the summer? It really comes alive, and strolling around on a bike (or rental scooter for lazy people like me) with the breeze in your face is quite something. It is definitely my favorite way to explore a city.
I know real Berliners (or annoying friends who lived there 10 years ago) have strong opinions about how the city has changed. Despite this, I feel Berlin still retains somehow its authentic vibe as a hub for underground culture and nightlife. Also, the city's architecture continually serves as a reminder of its history.
I hope you find this first guide of Berlin both enjoyable and useful.
Besos,
Santi
To stay:
Almost every time I go to Berlin, I go with a group of friends, so I often stay at an Airbnb. Otherwise, I like to stay at…
Soho House Berlin
If you follow me on IG, you know I love Soho House and tend to stay there while I travel. You don’t have to be a member to book a room. This one has all the amenities we like: cozy rooms (with complimentary homemade cookies), a rooftop pool, cinema, gym and spa. On the ground floor, you’ll find a concept store and cafe open to the public as well as a Cecconi’s restaurant. The only downside is that you really don’t need to leave, and you can easily spend the entire day there!
Michelberger Hotel
This boutique hotel in Friedrichshain is a great choice if you want a cool and very "Berlin" place to stay without spending too much.
To eat:
These are the best pancakes I’ve ever had. Period. There are no reservations, so get here early to avoid the queue. I regret not getting their famous McMuffin, hehe.
SOFI
A cute bakery in a quiet courtyard in Mitte. Expect a long queue here (is there anything more annoying?) I highly recommend their focaccia. I went there twice for a square.
Zeit für Brot
Best cinnamon rolls I had during my visit. Their chai, however, was quite shitty. In fact, I didn't find any decent chai in Berlin at all.
Wen Cheng’s
A great choice for a casual and budget-friendly lunch or dinner. The noodles come in a garlicky chili oil sauce with your choice of toppings, including lamb, beef, or sticky aubergine. By the way, I also went to Monsieur Vuong in Mitte, and it was quite disappointing. Neither the food, the staff, nor the ambiance was at the level.
Chipperfield Kantine
A minimalist cafe in Mitte designed by David Chipperfield, primarily serving as his studio canteen. However, it is also open to the public and offers simple, seasonal dishes daily.
Paris Bar
I can’t think of a better way to eat a bowl of Bouillabaisse than sitting in this place in front of Martin Kippenberger’s painting of the bar. Or, next to one of Cosima von Bonin’s rocket sculptures.
SWAY
My friend Maria recommended this natural wine bar on Pannierstraße. I loved the place, the food, and the people.
Bäckspace Pizza
Solid sourdough pizzas and foccacias. 10/10
To visit:
You might want to visit some of the boring classics, the Berlin Wall, Checkpoint Charlie, and the Pergamon Museum (currently closed for renovations), among others. But if you come with me, I’d take you to:
James Turrell - Chapel Dorotheenstädtischer Friedhof
This chapel at Dorotheenstädtischer Cemetery features a light installation by artist James Turrell at sunset. It offers a stunning experience that feels both psychedelic and spiritual. Booking a visit is must.
One of the best art galleries in Berlin. Originally a church designed by Werner Düttmann, this gallery is one of the most iconic examples of Brutalist architecture in Germany. The building features massive concrete blocks and exposed surfaces that reveal the grains of their original wood casts.
Check also the current exhibitions at some of my favourite galleries, Peres Projects, Esther Schipper, Sprüth Magers, Ulrich Fiedler and Galerie Max Hetzler.
Tchoban Foundation
If you are an architecture/design freak this is a great spot in Prenzlauer Berg. A museum focused on architectural drawing.
Liebermann Villa
The former summer house of painter Max Liebermann is a hidden gem situated on Lake Wannsee. Visit it in summer to see the garden in full bloom.
Sammlung Boros: Boros Collection
Hulking five-floor Nazi bunker turned Soviet prison turned nightclub turned art gallery.
The 80-room labyrinth holds part of the private collection of Christian and Karen Boros. This a unique opportunity to visit an actual war bunker plus one of the best contemporary art collections in Germany!
Reichstag
The roof and dome of the Reichstag Building can be visited and offers spectacular views of the city. This is one of the most important projects designed by Foster, symbolising the reunification of Germany.
+ almost all the parks in Berlin are stunning.
To shop:
Do You Read Me?
If you need a read – especially on art, fashion and architecture check out this amazing but small bookstore in Mitte.
Other favourites are Bibliotheca-Culinaria (for foodies like us) and Walther König (for art and architecture)
One of my favourite concept stores in the city, I think I have never bought anything there, but I always feel the need to pop by. Top brands alongside a small cafe and deli.
Also check out The Store X, Andreas Murkudis, Soto, Superconscious , and Overkill.
Hallesches Haus
Great spot to grab a coffee and browse their homewares selection.
Also check out these homeware spots Colecomp, LIV-Emaille, HAY, and o.k.-international.
Cowshed
During my trip, a summer storm hit, so I took the chance to indulge in a manicure, pedicure, facial, salt scrub, and massage (best three hours of my life) Since the spa was inside the hotel, I relaxed in my room after, ordered some room service, and watched Sex and the City. It was an amazing experience—I definitely recommend it.
To party:
A trip to Berlin wouldn’t be complete without trying to get into Berghain, right? Let me just say, it lives up to all expectations, and more.