My guide to having a really good time in Paris
Places to eat, explore, stay, and enjoy
I’m finally back in Madrid after weeks of travelling (Amsterdam and New York guides coming soon – and, spoiler, even a playlist).
Since Covid, I’ve found myself visiting Paris far more often. So often, in fact, I like to say I ‘lived’ there for two months while working on an exhibition at the Centre Pompidou. Truth be told, it was more like five weeks with plenty of back-and-forths, but please, just humour my little delusion :)
Regardless, it’s always a joy to visit, and although I know nobody really needs a Paris guide, here are a few of my favourite spots. *The Ultimate Joy Guide*
Profite bien!
Besos,
Santi
To eat:
*Bakeries, Breakfast and Merienda spots
Chez Bogato
Right next to the Pompidou. I’d almost always grab lunch here on my break—their sandwiches and cookies never disappointed (try the chocolate sable).
Boulangerie Mamiche
Everything here is delicious, but my weakness is the Roulé Cannelle. It’s different from your typical American cinnamon roll—crispy and caramelised on top.
Aux Merveilleux de Fred
The brioche of my dreams—practically the size of my head and topped with pearl sugar eveeerrywhere! You could live on this for a day.
The French Bastards
This chain has brought me plenty of joy. I love their sandwiches, Kouign-Amann, and éclairs.
Pâtisserie Artisanale Utopie
I used to ‘live’ on the same street. Their bread and quiches are good, but my friend Joana recommended the Smoked Sesame Roll, and now I can’t stop thinking about going back for it. Also I want to go back to Folderol (just a few meters away) to grab some ice cream and a glass of wine, last year Rosalía celebrated her birthday there lol #hotspot
White Coffee and Kawa
Both in Le Marais, they’re perfect for a coffee on the go if you can’t take another step without your daily caffeine fix, or if you just fancy wandering around with an €8 drink. I confess I love the feeling, and I don’t even drink coffee.
Saint Pearl
A good spot for brunch I went before visiting the Luxembourg Gardens and the Cartier Foundation. Order their eggs Benedict burger.
Café de Flore
I know this is super touristic but going to any nice-looking café is my favourite way to people-watch, read a book, or… smoke? (We are in Paris after all) This is a classic, right across from Brasserie Lipp. There’s also a worth visiting stand nearby, Creperie St Germain, because there is nothing better than a crispy waffle with nutella and chantilly.
Hotel Costes
If Kim Kardashian can fly from LA to Paris just to have cake, then it’s at least worth a try. I can confirm that no one in Paris actually goes to Hotel Costes for cheesecake, but who cares—it’s good. You’ve got to follow Kim’s advice in almost everything.
Chez George
My absolute favourite. It’s a tiny space (I love a warm, buzzy feeling), with delicious food and the perfect local vibe. It’s a small, family-run spot where everyone’s seated close together and the food is to die for. Try the beef fillet steak with bearnaise sauce and french fries.
Le Voltaire
A bit on the high-end side, but the roast chicken here is unreal. Classic French elegance with an old-world feel, ideal for a special meal. Quite formal, so consider wearing a jacket.
Parcelles
I still remember their sage and butter gnocchi—soft and pillowy perfection. It’s a small little spot with just a few tables and fantastic food. Located in Le Marais, it’s ideal for a break between shopping.
Chez Janou
It’s often packed, so book in advance, but the duck is worth it! And don’t miss the bottomless chocolate mousse.
Le Café des Musées
My friend Claudia recommended this to me, and it’s an absolute dream for boeuf bourguignon with mashed potatoes—rich and hearty. It has an old school vibe and is not super pricey for Paris.
Le Cherche Midi
The pink tablecloths alone are worth it, but the pasta is really good. Perfect for a romantic carbicide.
Georges
Located on the top floor of the Pompidou Centre, it’s perfect for a lunch break between exhibitions. Be sure to ask for a table by the window for views of the entire city, and don’t miss the truffle rigatoni.
Le Quincy Bistro
My friend Hugo took us to celebrate my birthday last month, and it was quite an experience. It offers a super authentic bistro atmosphere; combining a relaxed vibe with a very very traditional French menu (that includes frog legs!), along with a curated wine list. Just a heads up—they only accept cash.
Maxim's
Iconic Art Nouveau institution in Rue Royale. I hadn’t planned on including it in the guide, but I can’t stop thinking about the profiteroles and strawberries in syrup—the best I’ve ever had. Totally over-the-top and a guilty pleasure.
*Sandwiches and fast (good) food
Le Petit Vendôme
One of the best jambon-beurre sandwiches in Paris.
Chez Alain Miam Miam
Another spot for a really good freshly made sandwich. Ideal for a quick lunch on the go in Le Marais.
Miznon
Yummy Israeli food. I always go for the sweet potato and cauliflower appetisers and the chicken pita— but everything is really good. I also love Dizen; definitely try the schnitzel there.
Super China
My friend Carmen recommended this to me. Chinese take out vibes with an option to eat inside. I went twice and enjoyed being seated by the window. The place is beautifully designed by Rudy Guénaire, and their fried rice and gyozas are delish.
Kadawi Ramen
Great ramen spot. Everything is homemade, and the broths are delicious—enough to bring you back to life. It is quite popular so avoid peak times.
PNY Burger
I don’t have much experience with burgers in Paris, but I really enjoyed these. If, like me, you tend to prefer chicken over beef go for their ‘Crispy Chicken’. Their Rue Sainte-Croix location in Le Marais is beautiful.
*To sip:
Bar Hemingway
You don’t need to stay at the Ritz to enjoy the iconic Bar Hemingway, it is known for serving the best martini in Paris.
L'Orillon
A cozy bar located in the Belleville neighborhood. My friend Claudia took us and it’s a great spot to unwind with friends and enjoy small plates and natural wines.
To Visit:
While you might want to visit some typical tourist attractions like the Louvre and Notre-Dame, if you come with me, I’d take you to:
Bourse de Commerce, Pinault Collection: Housed in a stunning former stock exchange, this venue displays a great collection of contemporary art. The architecture by Tadao Ando alone is worth the visit.
Palais de Tokyo: A huge space for art and experimental exhibitions. They have a great bookshop/store and café where you can have smth to eat if you need a break.
Cahiers d’Art: A charming little bookshop and gallery that focuses on art publications and modern works. I used to collect back issues of their iconic magazine.
Louis Vuitton Foundation: A stunning building that combines amazing exhibitions and architecture by Frank Gehry. Last time I was there, I rediscovered the work of Rothko, which was a highlight.
Fondation Cartier pour l'Art Contemporain: Housed in a beautiful glass building designed by architect Jean Nouvel, the space showcases great exhibitions set against a backdrop of lush greenery (you can even sit outside and read a book in their garden)
Galerie de Paléontologie et d’Anatomie Comparée: My friend Victoria, an art dealer who lived in Paris, recommended this hidden gem to me, and I’m forever grateful. It’s perfect for a summer day. Located within the Jardin des Plantes and housed in a beautiful historic building, it is filled with towering dinosaur skeletons.
Musée de l'Orangerie: Home to Monet’s famous Water Lilies. My favourites.
Le Corbusier Architecture Tour: Parisians are very lucky to have examples of Le Corbusier's modern design right at their doorstep. You can plan a one-day itinerary starting at the Fondation Le Corbusier and visiting iconic buildings like his studio apartment, Villa La Roche, and Villa Mallet-Stevens. You can also visit the Casa de Brasil, designed in collaboration with Lúcio Costa, as well as the Cité de Refuge.
Disneyland Paris: And, of course, if you're in the mood, head to Disneyland. I've only been twice, and I promise myself I’m going back to stay at one of their hotels. Don’t forget to try the Mickey-shaped pretzels! In fact, you should only eat Mickey-shaped food for the entire day.
Also don’t forget to check some of my favourites art galleries such as Thaddaeus Ropac in Le Marais and Pantin, Gagosian (be sure to check out the Le Bourget location)— Hauser & Wirth, and Marian Goodman.
To Shop:
*Bookshops
Yvonne Lambert
A bookstore and gallery combo with a great selection of books and prints.
Librairie Gourmande
A gourmet bookstore with an amazing selection of international cookbooks.
7L
Specialising in photography, art, and design books, it is housed in the former studio of Karl Lagerfeld.
Ofr
A must-visit bookshop in the Marais, if you are into design and art books.
*Home Essentials
E. Dehillerin
An iconic culinary supply store, the favourite of Julia Child! (also Martha Stewart) It’s a must-visit for anyone passionate about cooking.
La Trésorerie
A hardware store has everything you need for home and kitchen essentials.
Merci
Very famous concept store that combines fashion, homeware, and a café. I go every time just to have a look, even if I don’t buy anything.
*Food
G. Detou Paris
My happy place. I could easily spend an hour just browsing. Originally established in 1951 due to its proximity to the old Les Halles market it’s a go-to destination for both professional chefs and home cooks (like me).
IRASSHAI PARIS
I discovered this gem by accident one day when I couldn’t get into the Bourse de Commerce; it’s on the same block. It is a Japanese grocery and deli (you can have lunch there) and offers a good selection of ingredients, snacks, and ready-made sushi and bento boxes, all beautifully designed with their cute Japanese packaging.
*Skincare freaks
Elaine Hutzinger
The best facial in the city! Every visit is a treat. She's a master of facial cupping, lymphatic drainage, and Chinese medicinal treatments. Be sure to book in advance as she's extremely busy.
Ambassade Biologique Recherche
The place to go for those of us addicted to French skincare brand. You can get a skin analysis for free, although of course I always end up buying something.
Officine Universelle Buly 1803
The most charming apothecary—once you step inside, you’ll want everything. Trust me, especially the personalised lip balm, the combs, the brushes, the hand cream… I want it allll
Pharmacie Carré Opéra Chaussée d'Antin
A french pharmacy is the holy grail. I always pick up Biofine for burns, Cicaplast (they stock much more than in Spain), and A313 retinol. Plus, it’s just across from the Galeries Lafayette Haussmann, which has an amazing floor dedicated to skincare/wellness.
*Fashion
I rarely buy new clothes, but I’m starting to think I should. Last time I visited The Broken Arm, The Frankie Shop, Le Maire, and of course, Mary-Kate and Ashley’s first store in Paris (just to browse I prom)
Also be sure to check out Marché aux Puces; it’s worth wandering around. If you need last-minute flowers, visit Castor Fleuriste—my friend Sol, whose mother is a florist, told me it’s one of the best in Paris. And for tuxedo rentals (I know it’s a bit unusual, but I wish someone had told me about it), stop by Au Cor de Chasse.
To stay:
Soho House Paris
I try to stay at SH whenever I can. You’ve got to book well in advance to snag a decent rate, but the comfort and cosiness here are spot-on. They specialise in making you never want to leave.
Hôtel Rochechouart
Beautiful Art Deco hotel just around the corner from Soho House in Pigalle. Rooms are reasonably priced and definitely worth it for what you get. I remember a good restaurant on the first floor and a great rooftop with views of Sacré-Cœur and the Eiffel Tower.
Hôtel Monsieur Aristide
A charming little hotel in Montmartre – everything’s quite small, but it’s good value for money.
L’hotel Caron De Beaumarchais
A budget-friendly boutique hotel in the Marais, perfect if you want to stay central.
Hoxton Hotel
Great vibe and central location. The best part was definitely the buzzy patio and the nice restaurant.
On my bucket list are Hôtel Amour, Château Voltaire, and, of course, the Ritz.
Airbnbs
That time I claimed I lived in Paris? Well, I stayed in this designy Airbnb right between Le Marais and République. I highly recommend it, plus it’s literally right across the street from Folderol and Utopie Bakery!